Tuesday, 17 March 2009

Subterranean River National Park March 16th

Despite booking the tour and checking twice on the pick-up time, the tour van didn't arrive so I did what I should have done in the first place and made my own way there. I jumped on one of the “mini jeepneys” doing the rounds in Puerto Princesa to get to the new Central Bus Station, it's a bit out of town at the new Central Markets site; cost to get there 12 Pesos. Found the one and only bus to Sabang, it had the left rear wheel set complete with axle, brakes and hub removed, BUT they were working on it and people were already sitting in the bus seats in anticipation of leaving. I inquired and was informed that the departure time had shifted from 0900 to 0930. As it was only 0830 I figured I was in with a chance so sat and waited. True to their word the whole shebang was reassembled and we were on our way at a bit after 0930, although I didn't have a whole lot of confidence in the repair job seeing out the trip; the smell of burning brakes was pretty bloody strong for the first 50KM or so. The bus has obviously seen many many trips to Sabang before and fortunately completed yet another. I particularly admired the way the large rust holes in the floor facilitated ventilation and how the roof was pressed into service once all the seats inside were occupied.
Sabang is in the throes of a development boom with the increased national and international awareness of the “Underground River”, touted as being the longest navigatable underground river in the world.
Visit, www.puerto-undergroundriver.com to check it out, there's a link to a very informative video on the web site.
I didn't actually find the cave to be that spectacular in comparison the limestone caves I've been into in Western Australia, lacking in the beautiful shawls and long thin stalactites of the later. I do wish I had longer to explore the surrounding area as it is visually spectacular with much higher limestone formations than found further north. I started out with the intent of doing just a day trip but having missed the return bus to Puerto Princesa, I decided not to try too hard for an alternative ride but rather to spend the night there so I could at least explore some of the rain forest the next day.
I found a delightful complex of beach huts with the name “Dab-Dab Cottages & Restaurant.
Ph 09109241673 or 09295350653, it's located at the extreme end of the beach past the boat landing area. No two huts are the same and the owner / builder, Dante Ausan, has created a lovely complex by using traditional building materials in imaginative and daring designs. I was alloted cabin 4, an elevated room with outwards slanting walls and a spiral staircase for entry. At 400 pesos for the night I was very happy. The restaurant building is just as delightful, being constructed completely out of traditional materials but again in a very imaginative and creative fashion. If they ever do a remake of “A Swiss Family Robinson” they would do well to consult Dante for set design.
Got up nice and early for a pre-breakfast jungle trek, saw plenty of monkeys but not much of anything else regarding wildlife. The rain forest is very thick and just like in the north of Queensland it does come right down to the sea. Bummed around for the rest of the morning after my muesli breakfast at Dab-Dab and then managed to secure a ride back to Puerto in a nice comfortable Toyota Hi-Ace van for 300 Pesos. The bus fare is 120 Pesos for Philippines nationals and 200 for foreigners.
Off to Manila tomorrow morning to catch my connection to Shanghai.

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